From big streamers to tiny emergers and everything in between, fly tyers have a variety of options when it comes to incorporating beads, cones and eyes into their fly patterns. 

Like so many things in fly tying, these options provide ways to customize a fly and its position in the water – but on the other side of that coin, so many choices can seem intimidating, and their different purposes are not always clear. 

To that end, we have outlined a quick guide to using beads, cones, and eyes. Speaking to some of our resident fly tying experts here at the shop, we’ll explain some of the most common options and when we prefer to use them… 

Why Add Beads to Flies? 

There are several reasons a fly tyer might add a bead to a fly pattern. The first and perhaps most obvious is weight. In many instances, a bead, cone, or eyes give the fly extra weight to help it sink into the strike zone quickly. 

But weight isn’t the only factor. Another good reason for using a bead or eyes is simply aesthetic. Beads can help add a pop of color, a bit of flash, imitate a bubble / shuck or create the rounded shape of a bug’s head or abdomen, or the eyes of a baitfish. 

Finally, beads and eyes can also serve a purely functional purpose. For example, some flies are designed to ride hook-up in the water to avoid snags and beads or eyes can help accomplish that. Beads can also help anchor certain materials, prevent materials and hooks from fouling or otherwise help keep things in place on a fly.

Beads: Glass vs. Brass vs. Tungsten – Which One? 

Three of the most common beads used in fly tying are glass, brass, and tungsten. And in most cases, the choice between these three comes down to depth. 

Glass beads are a great way to add color or shape without adding a ton of weight that’s going to cause the fly to sink quickly. For that reason, glass beads are commonly used on emerger patterns. In fact, some dry fly patterns even incorporate glass beads, like Garcia’s Mother’s Day Caddis. Anytime you need to add a bead, but you don’t want the weight, glass is a good choice.

“I like using glass beads on leech patterns,” says Anglers All crewmember, Ben Kinne. “Especially when you’re already using a sink tip, a glass bead won’t cause that fly to plummet as much. Glass is perfect in stillwater, or whenever you want that fly to hover.” 

Brass beads provide a little more weight than glass. Yet they still won’t sink very quickly. Depending on the other materials used in a fly pattern, a fly with a brass bead could remain suspended high in the water column, or it could be designed to sink fast. These are also a good choice for those emerger and light-weight nymph patterns. 

Tungsten beads are all about depth. These provide the most weight and the fastest sink rate when compared to the two previous bead materials. 

“Tungsten beads are ideal for fast-sinking flies,” says Delaney Chapman. “When I want a nymph to get down into the zone, I’m always going to use tungsten.”

More Bead Options: Standard, Slotted, Faceted, and Jig Bombs

Bead material isn’t the only option you’ll have to contend with. When browsing through beads at your local fly shop, you’ll notice slotted beads, faceted beads and jig bombs. What’s the difference?

First, a standard bead is one with a hole drilled right through the center. That’s a great choice for many standard nymphs tied on straight eye, or down eye hooks. A slotted bead, as the name suggests, has a slot cut across one side. These slotted beads are designed to fit around the sharply angled shank of a jig hook. Or, it can allow the tier to fit a larger bead onto a small hook.

“I tie most nymphs on jig hooks,” Daryl Eakins told us. “Jig style nymphs ride hook-up in the water, which allows for a top lip hook set. And whenever I’m tying on a jig hook, a slotted bead is essential.” 

Daryl added that he will sometimes tie in a slotted bead on top of the hook shank using intruder wire. “Feed the intruder wire through the hole in the bead, and tie it down to the hook shank on each side,” he explained. “This gives an extra boost to the sink rate and easily flips that fly over. It’s a great way to tie leeches, small minnows, or shrimp patterns for saltwater.”

Faceted beads have flat areas across the surface of the bead – picture a disco ball. This a purely aesthetic factor that creates more reflective surfaces around the surface of the bead.

What about jig bombs? These are teardrop shaped beads that help a fly tyer increase weight while taking up less space along the hook shank, leaving more room for other materials. Jig bombs can be used on standard hook shanks or on jig hooks. According to our friends at Umpqua Feather Merchants, jig bombs are about 20% heavier than slotted beads, and they use 15% less of the hook shank. These are a great solution for patterns that are designed to sink fast, and ride hook up.

Using Beads, Cones or Eyes on Streamers, Crayfish and Baitfish Patterns

When tying larger flies like streamers, buggers, crayfish and baitfish patterns, fly tyers can use various types of beads, eyes or cones to create different effects. 

Daryl is our resident carp fishing expert, and he points out that carp flies are a good example of when to use different types of eyes. 

“Bead chain eyes and dumbbell eyes are both effective, and they serve two totally different purposes,” Daryl explained. “Bead chain eyes are hollow and fairly light. They are good for hovering flies. But keep in mind, a tyer can add other materials that would help suspend or sink that fly. On the other hand, dumbbell eyes can be used for patterns that are intended to sink quickly.”

When it comes to flies that sink fast, both dumbbell eyes and cones can be good options. But when would a tyer choose one over the other? 

According to Ben, dumbbell eyes will cause the fly to swim up and down. A cone or bead on a streamer can help create more of a side-to-side swimming action. And Delaney added that sculpin heads are yet another option. He says that sculpin heads add even more weight up front, causing a fly to dive more than a standard cone.

Ben also points out that color is an important consideration. Notice that many minnows, chubs, and shiners have dark heads. For that reason, he uses black cone heads, or bead on many of his baitfish patterns.

Beads can serve a totally functional purpose as well. For example, Delaney says he likes to use Killer Caddis Beads or 3D Beads on articulated streamers. “I add beads on the intruder wire between the two hooks,” he told us. “If you match the colors to the streamer, you may not even notice they are there. The real purpose then, is to keep the rear hook from getting fouled up. On a 3-6 inch fly, I will add two beads. And on 6-10 inch flies, I’ll use four beads.”

In addition to considering the function and sink rates of different materials, tyers should also consider the aesthetic aspects. “I like using beads on a streamer as a head, or tied in to the middle of the fly to add a little flare,” Ben added. “I’ve used glow-in-the-dark beads or even red beads on a white streamer. When the streamer is wet, that red color shows through a bit.”

Finally, fly tyers should remember that the placement of any bead or eyes onto the shank of a hook will ultimately change its action in the water. Delaney points out that tying in dumbbell eyes below the hook shank keeps the fly riding hook down but gives a lot of action. Whereas tying dumbbell eyes on top of the shank will cause the fly to flip and ride hook up. 

We’re Here to Answer Your Questions

Remember there are no dumb questions in fly fishing – especially when it comes to fly tying materials, which can easily become convoluted. Not sure what you need? Stop by the fly shop and let us help. Or, you can give us a call at 303-794-1104 and we’ll gladly help answer your questions and help you find what you need.